Wednesday 15th June 2005
Early dawn. All over London and the Home Counties, excited and slightly nervous people jumped out of bed and transformed themselves from 21st century citizens to subjects of Queen Victoria. In cars, in taxis and by public transport they sneaked towards Heathrow, grateful perhaps that so early in the day there were few passers-by to stare at them. Out of the taxi, lug the luggage in through the big glass doors, and there in the check-in queue it suddenly became 1895.
The King greeted the governess; the sub-librarian shook hands with the Colonel; the Countess and the prostitute kissed cheeks. Aristocrats and shopkeepers, blackmailers and murderers, villains and victims - here was everybody, and the adventure was about to begin. Mr Holmes appeared at last – cutting it fine, as usual – and we were up and away.
I don’t know how many British airports have their own brass band, but the moment we arrived in Switzerland we were greeted by the Zurich Airport Orchestra and were treated to a vin d’honneur – the first of many. Speeches of welcome by the airport director and the Director of Swiss Tourism gave the impression that the airport, the railways and indeed the whole country had been specially designed for our visit. Actually this is the impression Switzerland always gives me – can it really be so clean, neat and beautiful all the time?
After a very welcome lunch we were off by train to Berne, the Swiss capital. Here we were met by another band, more speeches and the famous Bears of Berne. Last time we met these bears, in 1991, they stole the secret plans, which were only retrieved after a deed of desperate daring by Mr Holmes. This time they were well-behaved bears, and even gave us presents – each pilgrim received a heraldic bear brooch. Up at the Bear Pits we formed up behind the magnificent Cavalry Military Band – placing our feet cautiously – and marched in triumphant procession through the town to the Erlacher Hof, or Town Hall, for an official reception by the Mayor of Berne. Fraternal greetings were conveyed by Mr Holmes from the Lord Mayor of Westminster, and we all enjoyed the cool of the delightful garden and the view over the city and the river.
After such an early start, and a crowded day, it was something of a relief to be off-duty in the evening. Berne is a beautiful city and it was pleasant to stroll through it in the balmy twilight; most of us found nice eating-places in the quiet streets and squares. I know that I for one sat there in perfect content, drinking a long cold beer and looking forward to a whole week of the best fun in the world. |
