Saturday the eighteenth of June - Lausanne to Zermatt.

from the Swiss Journal of Anna Arturevna Coram, 1895

It was a brilliant, sparkling and somehow very French, morning when our happy band of pilgrims made its way down the hill from lovely Lausanne, to Ouchy. There we were to board the good ship Henry Dunant floating invitingly upon Lac Léman, with intent to cruise to Vevey.

Upon the quay we were surprised to meet Miss Stoper of that well-known agency for Governesses called Westaway’s. My friend Miss Hunter was, I thought, a trifle cool with her. Miss Stoper was accompanied by one of her fair clients. They proceeded with us on board and gave us ‘all the gossip’ from the hotels, which abound round the lake. One of these, of course, was visited by Lady Frances Carfax. She, Miss Stoper suggested, might have come to Lausanne for ‘the electric bath’. This was introduced here when power was brought to the city in 1888 for the tramway. It consists of a water bath, in which the patient sits, and is then ‘connected up’. Such ‘shock therapy’, we were told, has become, understandably, less and less popular. There is an English cemetery nearby.

As a Russian and a nihilist, I was particularly interested to find that it was on this lovely Riviera that Rosa Luxembourg met, and often disagreed with, Lenin. The area also produces a very tolerable wine, called St. Saphorin.

After a delightful voyage enlivened by many a happy chorus, we arrived in Vevey to be met by a band of pipes and drums. The musicians, in colourful array, led us through the charming old town to l’hotel de Les Trois Couronnes. The crowns in question were those of three former guests, a pope, an emperor and a king. Dear Kipling stayed there twice and it was also taken, for a whole season, by the Empress Elizabeth. Certainly its tall pillared atrium, in many-hued marble, is most elegant.

We set off once more, only pausing to view, unexpectedly, ‘The Sherlock Holmes Bar’. On reaching the market we were welcomed by Madame, the charming Mayor, and entertained with excellent wine and food. All was grown and prepared by our kind hosts, the local farmers and their wives.

The highlight of the day was the discovery of an entrancing roundabout seated upon whose prancing steeds the ladies of our party made a ravishing picture. At one point I espied Dr Watson, himself mounted, exchanging words with a certain Wicked Professor. I feared greatly that this episode might bode ill for the future welfare of Mr. Holmes.

Saying farewell to Vevey we took a train, which passed by Byron’s castle Chillon where it stands, romantic, regarding its own reflection in the lake. Soon we changed trains and proceeded through the most picturesque of alpine scenes, reminiscent of beloved Heidé.

On reaching Zermatt we also received a warm Mayoral welcome, and followed still another band through the narrow streets. Here we caught our first glimpse of the towering Matterhorn. On retiring to our hotel for dinner, we were to undergo the odd experience of dressing as people in the 21 st century. It was strange and not altogether pleasant, except for the relief to one’s feet. Will we ever dress in such an ugly way? I believe that ladies will never lightly give up their stays and elegant frocks nor men their dignified cravats and headgear for this sort of dubious freedom!

A lakeside encounter	An elegant equestrienne